Before the Price Spike: Celine Revives the Luggage (Phoebe Philo Girls, Rejoice!)
Celebrating Michael Rider and a Phoebe-era Celine under $500 round-up
I’ve predicted a few fashion moments in my time: see below. (RIP to my Twitter. I left a while ago and miss the casual format, which might explain why I now treat Substack Notes with the same offhand frequency)
One of these crystal ball moments includes my proclamation of Celine’s return to the luggage/phantom tote, though I expected it sooner as a trend amongst fashion people and not necessarily back on the runway… Remember, this was stated before Hedi announced his departure.
As a dedicated Phoebe-head (frequently stalking the namesake label’s corner at Bergdorf’s, to the visible dismay of the sales associates), I’ve always kept her Celine in a distinct category: not vintage, not archival, but canonical.
Which is why I’m so charmed by Celine’s new creative director, Michael Rider. He had a front-row seat to the original era, working alongside Phoebe during her reign—a first-hand influence that’s clearly echoed in his debut collection as CD. It’s been both nostalgic and refreshing to see codes reemerge, not as homage, but as quiet continuity.
I appreciate the rich visual tapestry Rider has woven in this first outing. It doesn’t feel like he’s competing with Hedi or imitating Phoebe, but rather translating the house’s most iconic brand codes into heavily styled, shoppable looks that signify a refreshed era for the brand and signal commercial promise. If the momentum continues, I wouldn’t be surprised if he quickly becomes another golden boy of the LVMH portfolio. Between this and Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut, I’d say LVMH stock should be looking up very soon.
Naturally, I took it as a cue to start sourcing. Below, a round-up of secondhand luggage totes worth shopping now—before the market responds. (Balenciaga’s City bag went from $400 to $insane the minute it reappeared on the runway </3)
Scroll for the selects (size guide at the bottom).
Best in Phoebe-era Celine Luggage Totes <$500
Thank you REBAG for the graphic!
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When I earned my doctorate in 2017, I bought myself a large phantom as my chic “doctor bag” because why not. No regrets. Still love her.